FJs are sturdy mounts, and put up with hard riding for many
years without complaint. They sometimes do have their quirks
tough, and this section is devoted to the common fixes for
little annoyances that add so much character to the bike.
See too Buying
2nd-hand FJ and
think is due to FJ 1200 is a simple over bored FJ 1100, because
I don’t remember all those seismic vibrations in my 1100, that
causes broken fairing tabs and screw drops in 1200 models until
the 1991 on model, with special rubber in the chassis fittings.
Anyway, to minimize vibrations, here it is a little checking
and repair the carb diaphragms. Below there is a method to
repair these and avoid bankruptcy, because the Yamaha spares are
essential keeping the OE weighty bar ends.
Dismount and grease the engine rubber mounts. Use red rubber
grease. When refitting, apply the correct torque specified at
the workshop manual, no more.
Check the rim bearings.
the OE front sprocket. Its not so expensive and come with a
vibration damper grommet inbuilt.
Check the wheel alignment. The swing arm marks are useful. Do it
taking measures from both sides of the swing arm.
Of course, all of above is starting from a correct carb balance
and valve clearances checked.
seems that the regulator hot left engine position causes that it
start overcharging and it causes the battery fluid boils and
evaporate, leaving the battery dead.
It is commented that Yamaha fitted the sealed battery to 91
on models to avoid this splashed fluid problem, because sealed batteries don’t
and, obviously, it can't boil.
OE regulator is overly overpriced so try one from
part nº RG25. Cheap
and dead easy to fit with the instructions supplied. 7 years
since fitted, the regulator works perfectly. and the service
support is top notch: near 3 years after I bought the regulator,
they answered my mail with a technical question NEXT DAY! TOP
NOTCH! (Read it at the FJ medical centre section)
Update: Electrex don't make
this regulator anymore. Buy the Nippon Denson, not a cheap
In older models, it seems to be a problem with the venting of
the gas cap not letting enough air in, and this builds up a
vacuum in the tank, starving the carbs. The permanent fix for
this involved disassembling the gas cap and removing these 2
little orange pieces of rubber that are supposed to act as some
kind of vapour valve. See the fuel tank cap trick in the carburetion
Unfortunately there doesn’t seem to be one solution to this
problem. I have read about
to disassembly the clocks and sprayed with silicone-based oil.
Myself I sprayed with WD40 and it works. Not easy solution
anyway. And I DON'T RECOMMEND painting the speedo & tacho
needles with nail
paint. You can't see
anything at night. Tested. :-(
Sump plug screw and threads stripped
It is definitely an ugly problem of the FJ models: when
tightening the sum plug I have stripped 2 times the threads
along the time. My
1st time was in 1992 in my FJ 1100 and now it is my 2nd
time in my FJ 1200. And it is not due to over tightening.
Like a prevention, use always a new gasket.
Fixing is not difficult, only time consumer: you have to
dismount exhausts and oil pan. Fortunately,
It is not necessary to take the motor off the chassis, only the
oil pan. Fit an
helicoid and refit all again
bought a car mud flap with the Yamaha logo printed, drilled the bike
guard with a 8 mm drill and attached with a couple of screws
Clutch bleeding see
a lot of hours bleeding my FJs clutches when I changed the hose,
a car mechanic told me the best solution, the same that in
Peugeot 504 models: simply, refill the circuit, close the nipple
of the push-rod, left the master cylinder deposit open and push
the lever one hundred times (or similar, UFF!). You will see the
air pumps going out the circuit. After a quarter of an hour,
more or less, you will get your circuit free of air.
refitting exhausts, if you re-use the gaskets , apply a
special-exhaust paste that you can buy in any auto-store. Fit
the exhaust, ride around the bike to let the exhaust get hot and
retighten the screws with the exhaust
working temperature. And be careful do not to touch any part of
the exhausts directly with your skin!!!!.
of the head bearings is my worst nightmare in the FJs. I changed
them 10 years ago in my FJ 1100 and again in my new FJ last
June. It is near impossible to follow the workshop manual
procedure: punch the inner bearing races with a screwdriver and
a hammer: there is no area to base the screwdriver to push the
down bearing race.
my 1100, I got take out the down head race welding a piece of
iron to have area to punch it out, and in my 1200 with a little
radial-saw, mm to mm grinding for 10 hours the race surface
until it collapse, being horrified for the possibility of damage
the chassis inner head
is other method in my mechanical consultory section.
IMPORTANT NOTE: the
grommet with the nº 5 at the part catalogue in the
picture at the left is necessary in order to get the proper
bearing torque. If discarded, when the torque is applied at the
head nut (nº 7) the bearings get too much tightened.
1100 front collector's double wall
1100s fit a double wall headers that suffer from inner cracks
and those sound like piston/conrods failure. You can live with
the noise and it doesn't affect the motor health. This problem
was solvent by Yamaha fitting a single wall headers in the FJ
1200 models, and by me in my first FJ 1100 buying a Muzzy
Don't fit economy transmission kits. Any chain with less quality
than top of the range (and expensive) DID ZXVM chain is money
throw to the bin. I clean the chain each 1.000 km. with WD40,
grease it (with a Teflon free product to avoid road grim pasted
and actuating like grind paste) and clean the excess with linen.
I obtain around 100.000 kms. from my chains.
can change the fork oil without dismantle the fork legs from the
bike, thanks to the plug screw at the bottom of each fork vase.
But if you use this way, you will only get about 300 cc of fork
oil, instead of the 395 cc to 425 cc that there is inside of
each leg. Particularly, I prefer dismantle the legs to be sure I
have plugged all the old oil, and adjust levels and quantities
with completely new oil.
carbs had 2 carb slides diaphragms with various little holes.
The consequences are poor fuel consumption and vibration. The OE
spares are very expensive (about 200 €), even although at the
are cheaper because they are exchange basis: you send your
slides and they fit the diaphragms.
Anyway, you can use Plasti-Dip. The 1st problem was found it:
in Tenerife nobody know what I was speaking about, and I visited
A LOT of hardware and auto store shops. So I had to order to
Britain: the post was more expensive than the Plasti-Dip, so I
ordered a pair of bottles. Total cost: 40 € from . Buy it at
It is FANTASTIC!. I mixed it with 20% naphtha and painted the
diaphragm holes with a pencil, allowing to dry overnight. Ready!. It is near the OE
flexibility and they look more resistant than before. Job done. I've checked a couple of times in 12 years and the
fixing are permanent
to airbox manifolds get hardened with the engine hot & by years,
so it could be near impossible to fit them properly. It is even
more difficult in my CBX than in my FJ because there are not
heat windshield protecting the carbs and consequently the parts
are even more hard to bend and manipulate to refit them. The
trick can be used with any other grommet part on the bike to
solution is easy: buy new parts, but expensive. So boil the
parts 5 min in water 5 min and then immerse the parts in liquid
Vaseline for 12 hours. The parts recover most of their
flexibility and you need less effort to refit these.
IMPORTANT NOTE: it is recommended only for single or leaving
alone people. Don't do it with your couple/mother/wife at home
because the refitting process could be peanuts compared with the
consequences of using her cook ;-)
clearances & Ford valve shims
Valve clearances on
race bikes are settled on minimum clearance the intake valves
and maximun on exhaust valves, between specs, so the combustion
chamber get a optimum emptied in each complete piston stroke. In
our FJ the adjustment used on race bikes are 0.11-0.12 intake
and 0.20-0.21 exhaust.
Getting these precise
adjustment in our FJs is very complicated because the Yamaha
shims are made with a 0.05 gap between sizes. Well, the solution
reside on fitting 25 mm. Ford valve shims, with a gap of only
0.025 between sizes. On the pic there is a table with valve
sizes and Ford part numbers. As far as I know, the parts numbers
are for European Ford models, ZETEC 1.4 engines.
At the left are the
shim sizes with UK & Spain part numbers.
easy and cheap, the trick come from a Spanish FJowner, member of
our FJ whatsupp Spanish community
RC radio control car trasmission cardan from Aliexpress. The
perfect sizes are 5x6, but 6x6 do the task too. Fit it to the
remote dipstick and to the headlamp. Ready. With the allen
screws provided to fix the cardan you could dismount it if you
side stand security switch
FJ 1100 /
FJ 1200 1TX 1986-1987
of us know the function of this security system, that
avoid the ride of the bike with the side stand extended, with
the consequent risk of turning left and going straight when the
left out side stand touch the ground.
system has 2 functions: first, with the engine running, stop the
engine if the side stand is extended and any gear is engaged,
and second, avoid starting the engine pushing the clutch with a
gear engaged and the side stand extended.
The electric esquem describe
Interestingly, on European limited 100 hp or less 1986-1987 FJ
1200s (France, Germany, Switzerland ...) or USA models this
device comes factory fitted, while on the free power European markets, code 1TX
, Spain, Italy, United Kingdom ... it is not present.
As far as
I know, no 1100s fit it from factory, so all of these benefit
from this mod.
Parts needed: FJ 1200 88-90, 3CV, 3CW or 1XJ 1986-87 (from France or
Germany) left chassis rail, (with switch base), side stand
(protruded toactivate the switch) , and
painted and fitted, the parts look original equipment.
1100s is mandatory to change the right chassis rail too, to fit a
1200 front chin, or fix and weld a front support for the original
1100 chin, different of those fitted on 1200s.
We are in
debt with my friend Mingo for this ESSENTIAL MOD who has studied
the 1200 electrical diagram with the wires of another parted
1200 that we own
We remove the electrical installation from the left side and
look for the 2 sets of taped wires, as they come from factory.
Peel the tape and we find 3 wires welded (Pic 2) .
of them go to the start engine and other to coils. The wire that
go to the starter must be cut. Cut one of the two and press
lightly the start. If it engage, you are wrong and it is the
other wire (¡Ouch!). If not, you are right. (Pic 3).
In our bikes, this wire cut is red/white, if it helps.
a new wire to the starter wire that we have identified
previously, that will go later connected to relay port 87 (Pic 4).
Re-weld the original 3 wire connection, this time with a new
wire that will be later connected to relay ports 85 and 30,
both ports serial connected between them, so the
voltage go thought the main fuse and when connected, give power
to the RUN circuit and the complete installation.
It is clearly observable in Pic 5
Everything is wrapped again and put back in her place (Pic
we go to the other side of the bike: install the side stand
switch (Pic 7) and guide the wire until it appears near
the neutral green connector that we will later manipulate (Pic
8), hence the new connectors will look perfectly integrated
with the original installation connectors of the area. The red
wires in Pic 8 that you see on the left is the ones that we
welded on the other side and we have guided to this left side to
connect them to the relay as is described previously.
- Built a new wire with a
diode integrated in it. It is connected to the chassis to get
ground. (Pics 9 &
10). This wire is the first connection on the 2 male main
connector where the side stand switch female will be connected
- The second wire on the
male connector will go to relay port 86, joined or welded
with a wire that comes from the blue neutral wire (Pic 12),
this wire fitted as described in the following step.
- Prepare this second wire
from the Neutral wire, the blue one on the green connector.
Insert a diode on it and weld it or join with the wire of the
previous step. Both of them go to the relay port 86 (Pics
11 & 12)
- Connect everything as it
is described at the relay: the red wire from the starter wire to
the relay port 87, the red wire from the installation to the
relay ports 85 & 37, and the neutral and side stand wires to
relay port 86 and situate the relay in a cavity situated
at the front left of the battery case. It looks like it was
specially designed for it, because it fits perfectly. (Pics 14
Ready!. I've tried that
everything is clear, easy and well explained. But the
electrical part of the mechanics is not my strong, and even
after having installed with Mingo, I have being consulting
again. Combine it with that English is not my mother language,
so please be patient, read carefully and study the task before
to proceed to perform it.
We have installed this mod
for our security, and have made the effort to document here
because we think it is an ESSENTIAL
MOD to install in all the FJ types that don't
bring it from factory.
to see on the video the cush drive slack in my FJ 3CV with
Suzuki GSXR 5,5 rim .
change it. I've bought an aftermarket replacement in USA.
Fantastic material!. It fits so tight that you need another
couple of hands to help you to install the grommets in the rim.
While one is pushing and maintaining pressure on the sprocket
carrier, the other situate the sprocket carrier tabs one by one
with a screw driver in their places. After all of them are in
their correct places, make pressure and ready