Clutch fluid and hose changed

CHANGING CLUTCH FLUID AND HOSE

At this time, your clutch hose is well past to date, so that like you are going to change it, I would recommend you the following procedure:

1.- Screw out the down banjo bolt, (the one attached to your clutch push -road), discard the 2 shims (because you must refit these using new ones) introduce the extreme of the hose into a suitable deposit and pump the brake lever until you get the maximum quantity of fluid off. Wrap around the banjo with an absorbent cloth to prevent damage to the paintwork (the fluid is corrosive)

2.- Un-tight the little cap master cylinder screws with a suitable screwdriver (be careful, because it is very easy tread the heads), but don't unfit the cap

3.- Dismount the clutch master cylinder with the hose attached. See the hose routing, because you must route the new hose like the old one. You can re-use the original grommets, only push the metal fittings around with a pliers

4.- Dismount the upper banjo bolt, the one attached to the master cylinder and discard the 2 shims too

4.- Dismount the cap, eliminate the rest of liquid and deposits & clean with a soft cloth and , if it is necessary to remove inner dust of the deposit, with a little brake fluid

5.- Refit the master cylinder

6.- Refit the clutch hose, upper & down banjo bolts with NEW SHIMS (IMPORTANT!)

7.- Refill the deposit with fluid and open the bleed nipple. Pump until you see fluid goes out. Then close the bleed nipple

Then, it start the time consuming part: bleeding the clutch lever is a pain in the FJ. I learnt that you must bleed the circuit like in a Peugeot 405: simply refill the deposit, put the cap on (without screws, only to prevent the fluid splash around) and pump 1 million times without opening the bleed nipple, keeping an eye on the fluid lever. Add when it is low. When you can feel push pressing, pump a million times more, then refill the deposit and put the cap and screws on

If you want avoid the engage-jump when you get the bike in the morning, simply engage 1st before start the bike and push forward a little, with the clutch lever engaged, to the clutch plates come unstuck. You will feel them. Then go to neutral and start.

Good luck & enjoy

August 2013: Glen Peterson tip to bleed the clutch:

Purchase a 5' length of 1/4" I.D. clear tubing (available at most hardware stores and aquarium shops).

Push tubing over bleed screw nipple. Loosen bleed screw 1/2 to full turn. Get a friend or wife (good luck) to hold other end of tube in clutch fluid reservoir. (you can tape it in place if no one available). Now, this is critical... do not allow fluid lever to drop below glass sight. Begin working clutch lever repeatedly. Fluid will begin flowing up tube. You will need to keep refilling reservoir. Keep operating clutch lever until no more air bubble appear in tube. Close bleeder screw. Remove hose (placing drain pan beneath bike). Now top off reservoir and replace cover.

Note: you will waste a bit of Dot 3 fluid but this is pretty inexpensive stuff.

I have never had an issue doing this procedure this way. It is the safest and easiest way to bleed all air from system