initially in my FJ 1100,
and I transplanted
to my 1st 1200 when I trade the 1100. (All the FJ
seats are interchangeable). It was the
I bought it because with the original seat I couldn’t move
myself on the bike to change my weight
in curvy roads
because my leather suit didn’t slip on the original seat vinyl.
use PRONTO, yes, the furniture cleaner. But be careful when you ride with
casual trouser: it slips too much)
The fit and construction of the Corbin is exemplary. The only drawback is its permeability: if the weather is raining
or if you wash the motorbike, the seat is soaked for hours
its water absorption material.
if you (like I did) would like to test your FJ in a GP circuit,
because the pegs touch very easily. Be careful, because the next
thing to touch the floor is the original exhaust silencers.
I tested 2 of them: Raask and Tarozzi items.
click to see the Raask
ones and see the 1100 photo above for the Tarozzi items . Raask
are more weighted and higher. For a more relaxed footpegs
position fit the Tarozzi ones,
at the photo)
but think there is virtually no spares: If you break one in a
silly drop, like me, throw them to the bin.
(Italian aftermarket service, you see) The downside of
both of them
is that the pegs are not articulated, so these don't turn up when you
touch the ground
one drawback: the 1200 vibration could be seismic. Not so the 1100
one flip-up type from
There is not turbulences between screen and rider, and, more
important, no turbulences at all between
passenger and rider until around 140 km/h.
Above that speed, simply I can't recommend it. And the vision when at
sporting mode or on night is not clear and lightly
Recommended if you make long
rides at slow pace in bad weather. The fuel and oil smell
intoxicate you in summer when you are trapped by a traffic jam
(if your bike head cover grommets are not perfect)
Yamaha 1TX flip-up screen
My 1TX brings with an optional Yamaha
longer screen, offered in some markets.
The main difference with any other
flip-up screen is that the air flow is perfect inside the burble
created for the screen, with no fuel or oil smells in traffic
jams and with no parasit noises from the wind.
It is true that the 1TX faring is
tighter than the 3CV, but with the new longer screen the result
is better than with the 3CV OE fairing and screen for taller
(if you find any)
a little incident in July, 2007 in Portugal involving my back, sand
splash on the road and the hard tarmac, I changed the screen for one of
this company. It is fantastic, because REALLY their screens is optically
perfect. I had tested before, because I fitted one in my FZR 1000, with
fantastic results. RECOMMENDED!
my screen is
installed from 2.007, my bike has run more than 200.000 km. from then
and the screen is in perfect fit, not discoloured by the sun or the
and easy fitting solution to prevent stone damage to your fork
TCP make them.
them with tie-zips
bought it from the
FJOCUK. In my
model, 88, you can't fit it unless you change the original
handlebar grips and cut a piece of the inner accelerator
tube to make space between the switch hose and the brake master
cylinder ... at this point, I didn't continue
fitting it, but I think
change the handlebar ends too.
Vista Cruise Control. Fitting is
excellent and in minutes
(mine is a 90 model).
The FJ original grips are too large, and rubbed against the
Vista Cruise and prevented the throttle from closing. I cut down
the excess rubber with a xacto knife and, obviously, I ruined
the grip, so I bought another pair of
front light is a clear weak point: simply, there is no enough power from
the OE light to cope with the speed that our FJ is capable of.
Installing a relay let you get more voltage power at the bulb and
increase the light intensity. I bought mine from the USA,
here to see where. I know that it
is possible make a cheap one buying the components from your local
electrical store, but my electrical knowledge is very basic, so I
preferred buying it. There is a good description here at
have to dismount the fairing to install it (a pain in the arse in my 3CV
FJ) but it is worth the effort, because I can fast ride when night comes
without problems, even at more than 200km/h. The difference is awesome.
effect when following the bike is hypnotic. I like it
Right engine cover
case & gearchange lever
I bought it from
Excellent fit & finish. To fit the gear lever you must cut the OE foot
part, drill it and screw the IWT part. It is a very hard material and
you can't do it with a home hacksaw
(Take a look at the dashboard pic, up on this
page) I bought them from
Excellent finish. You can see them at the Control Cruise
photo, that shows too the dashboard switch.
I bought from them too the drive chain tensioner screws
covers than you can see fitted at the photo that show my actual FJ, on
top of this page
unfortunately, the website has disappear. What a pity!
Dashboard lights switch /
Gear indicator light
(click here to full detail)
dashboard bulbs burn
by temperature due to being
always on, and when a good light is needed by night
there is few intensity. To change those bulbs is 1 labour work minimum,
with lots of parts and screws to simply arrive to extract the dashboard.
And each time I dismount the fairing I find any tab broken due to the
vibration. This is common to 3CV and 1TX series.
An, why do it take the dashboard
lights on by daylight?.
So my friend Mingo designed and installed in our bikes a
switch to turning on and off the dashboard lights when needed. The
materials are easy and cheap to find:
- Electric wire
- 1 tiny switch
- 2 electrical plugs, similar to the OE equipment
You must look for the blue wire on the dashboard, signed
at the photo with the screwdriver. You can see at the photo how Mingo
installed the plug with red wire.
Then, fix the switch to the left side panel. Mingo fixed
it with Nural 25 to add resistance to avoid the panel break with the
continued switch use.
See the plug added to the switch at the photo. Then,
guide the wire from the dashboard to the left side panel. The 2 plugs
let you dismantle the left side panel and the dashboard leaving the
intermediate wire fitted in place: genius! .
The switch location is thought to use the switch safety
when on riding the bike.
I've installed a gear indicator in the dashboard. Click
on the link to see full instructions
XJ 900 clocks
The pic show my friend Mingo's FJ
dashboard. Simply fit the clocks from a XJ 900 1991 on inside the FJ
instruments box. You could install the plastic surround with the idiot
lights, but the FJ own look like more quality. XJ 900 to 93 rev counter
show 9.500 rpm. redlines, like the FJ OE.
This mod repairs forever the FJ fuel
Oil temperature thermometer
The oil temperature gauge installed
instead of the crankcase refill oil is uncomfortable to read because of the
place where is fitted oblige to apart the attention from the road to
look at. So I've proceeded to fit a KOSO water temperature digital thermometer. It
shows 125ºC max. PIC 1.
120º is the oil working temp max
advisable, I think, measured at the crankcase pan so it would be time to
stop to take a rest. I've never seen more than this temp in my previous
gauge, so I think there will be no problems.
I have to say that the previous basic
thermometer is rigorously exact when the engine is at working
temperature, checked side to side with my new digital gauge. Just
starting the bike, the crankcase gauge show less temperature than the
digital one, but after 15 min, when the normal working temperature is
reached, is exact. Great for a so basic and cheap gauge.
The temperature sensor is installed
inside a Allen screw cap that it is in front of the crankcase. PIC 2.
The thread could be made, but I opted for buying it from RPM with the
The thread must be universal because I have 2 different sensors that fit
into. The main gallery screw can be seen at pic 3.
electrical power is obtained from the rev gauge. It could be obtained
from any other place, but my dashboard lights are disconnected by
And the result is fantastic! PICS 5 Y 6 RECOMMENDED
1.999-2.006/VTR 1000 RC51 mirrors fitted in my 3CV
Trus is that have been purchased in
Aliexpress and these are not originals. Simply, replace the fairing
support for the original FJ one (or the TZR 50 base that were mines) and
fit straight on, only turning 180º in order to stay horizontal.
The view is good and don't move, opposite
to other aftermarket not original mirrors. The only dead spot is just at
the rear of the bike, but in balance, the side view is better than that
offer for the TZR mirrors.
Well, the original 3CV big TVs give you
the best view, but those are ugly and very expensive.
You have in option these CBR mirrors with
longer arms, if you even better rear view.
EXUP rear axle
To save interesting non-suspended weight,
the rear axle from Yamaha EXUP FZR 1000 can be used, being same width.
It is longer, so must be cut to the FJ axle measure and be the
thread be made.
FJ axle weight: 880 gr. Exup axle: 495
gr. Exup cut and moded 465 gr. In fact, half weight..
2.002-2.008 R6 2.005-2.007 mudguard (credits to David Collado, from Murcia)
The adaptors are made of soft steel. The
measures are taken from the ended products used on mine, so expect to
fiddling or playing a bit to get a correct fit.
It is not fitted the fork bridge at the
image, but only to get a better view. There is no problems to fit on the
bike, and it is recommended using the FJ1200 88 on metallic guide fitted
on the fork bridge to guide the odo cable.
Additionally a pair of M10x1,25x45
screws are needed, replacing the M10x1,25x40 originals that hold the
brake callipers in the lower attachments, so the bigger adaptor get fixed
there at the back. I got these in Aliexpress, made of titanium.
A replica YZF mudguard can be bought from
Take a look at the video to get an easy
https://youtu.be/nexwJsXW4PU It is in Spanish
language, but easy to understand visually.