First of all, change the original
brake lines and fit
rigid ones. Today, in any FJ model, they are well past their service limit (Yamaha
recommend brake lines changed at 2 years intervals),
so rid off them. The best setting is fitting 2 lines only, straight on from the master cylinder
to each caliper, not the 3 original lines, even although these
are prettier to my taste.
The FJ 1100
FJ 1200 -88
original auto-ventilated discs, in good shape, are
far away better than the FJ 1200 88
that could warp due to intensive using.
Read my test with my friend Mingo´s 1TX.
Only change the master cylinder for better feel & power,
with insufficient flow).
This is a recommendation valid for all FJ series and another
Yamaha of the era, such as FZR 600/1000, TDM...
FJs from 1988 on have an ugly problem with their brakes: with metallic
hoses, the feeling is very hard, but without brake force. I
change the master cylinder too and test a lot of pads. The
problem are the calipers: I experienced the same problems in the
FZR 1000 and the FZR 600 and after playing with pads, master
cylinders, discs and hoses, my conclusion is that the original
gold painted 4 pots calipers are RUBBISH.
So an improvement in brakes is the 1st item you must do in your
FJ. Those are the conclusions of the items I have tested
Harrison billet calipers:
fantastic 4 pots ones that I fitted in my FJ 1100. Expensive but
effectives, with 4 little pads in each caliper (one for piston).
Fantastic feel even with the original master cylinder.
The problem is their tendency to leak brake fluid by the piston
seals and the shims that you have to play with to centre the disc
in the caliper. A complete pain in the arse. I can not recommend
I tried these ones in my 1st FJ 1200. They are very
hard to bed on. And
DON'T USE SINTERIZED PADS WITH IRON DISCS.
After a little use, with these pads, they get so hot that you
get virtually no brakes at all.
In fact, with the PFM discs, the factory send an advice
with this incompatibility.
The best solution is to fit the new Yamahas blue, silver or gold calipers
buying them from a breaker. Mines are from my poor Fazer 600. These
are the only things that survived to my crash. They fit straight
on in the original front brake mounts. Fit a Fazer 600, 1000 or
FJR 1300 master cylinder
(all of them are the same item)
and your brakes will be awesome.
Be careful to choose the Nissin master cylinder, because
starting in 2003 Yamaha changed to Brembo and these are not as
good as the Nissin ones.
I have tested these calipers with the original FJ master
cylinder and the brakes feeling is too hard, doing the brakes
like a switch on/off, without
2012 I changed to 2003 R 1 gold calipers only because the bike
looks better. I've feel not difference at all
The master cylinder change is imperative:
even more brake power, and best of all, more feeling and better
control of this power. See too my friend Jose Carlos GSXR 1000
master cilinder adaptated., very ugly to my taste: the Fazer
master cilinder looks integrated and both solutions are equally
awesome when stopping
strongly recommend the OE R1 Summimoto Yamaha pads: yes, these are expensive,
but on power, feeling and matching your disc material, these are
the best far away. This advice is useful for the 1100 & 1TX
models too. And if you have mounted the blue pots, use
the OE R1 gold pads: WOW!!
February 2012 I fitted GOLDFREN pads to my Honda CBX 750. The
brakes have improved no end compared with the HH Ferodo pads
fitted previously. The Goldfren pads compound look very similar
to the Yamaha R1 pads compound.
The Goldfren are less than half
the price of the Yamaha OE ones, so now I fitted those in
S33 compound for road use. For a closed circuit I recommend GP5
IMPORTANT: use always
organic pads (black ones) on the first FJ series
callipers, those with auto-ventilated discs. I include 2
references on the pics. If you use modern sintered pads you will
destroy the disc compound. The EBC pads must be WITHOUT the
Best pads for the 1st series
are de original equipment Sumitomo, like on the pic.
OE rear brake is an excellente unit in power and feel. My actual
GSXR 1100 rear adapted is not match for the OE unit.
But the quality of the OE rear calliper is very bad. The piston
corrode fast and stick in the calliper, searing the rear disc in
the process. It need a carefully annual cleaning and protecting
with red grease
BRAKE MASTER REPLACEMENT
OE front brake master is clearly no match for the FJs
performance, so, like we have seen, the improvement with another
master with more flow is imperative and and easy improvement,
and with Yamaha Summimoto callipers from the new series, a
fabulous and necessary upgrade to enjoy the full potential of
for the ABS equipped FJs the mod is not so easy or straight on
because the ABS connections to the master cylinder.
to my friend Xavier, member of our Spanish FJ group, for the
document included with the solution to perform the brakes
upgrade in the ABS serie.
at the pic to download the
1.984 - 1.987 FJ 1100/ FJ
1200 FRONT BRAKE CALLIPERS REPLACEMENT
Summimoto 4 pot callipers
distance between mounting holes of the Summimoto monoblock
callipers form the Yamaha conventional braked last series
is 100 mm. those blue, gold o plated external coloured pistons, so
don't fit for a replacement instead of the single
opposed pistons original equipment for the FJs first series to
1987, with 83 mm.
So to fit those monoblock callipers the fork low ends must be
replaced from the last series, 1.988-1992, without the antidive,
fitting new discs and 17" front rim. In most EU countries this
mod must be legalized, adding costs to the mod.
keep the OE 16" front inch, with all its advantages in absorbing
bumps and handling, but need more brake power, you must look for
FZR400 RR SP 3TJ, TZR250 3MA
(reverse cylinder) or TZR 250 3XV V twin callipers. Others
FZR 400/600 or 250 series don't fit: the auto-ventilated disc is
note: the new callipers go straight on, but you need 1 std
shim inserted between the fork support and the calliper mounting
order to center the callipers with the disc. The brake hoses
system is maintained exactly the same.
Pads are the
same used for the blue/gold/silver
Summimoto conventional callipers.
IMPORTANT note: the pads must be
organics or GG code, discs material compatible, NOT
sintered pads. Goldfren S33 compound are very good.
Side to side with my STD 1TX with 16"
Nissin master and Kyoto organic pads, the brake power is similar
at hogh speed, but the main difference is found at the end of
the braking, from around 100 km/h to full stop. With 14" Nissin
master and Kyoto semi-sinterized pads, Mingo´s brakes are much
more sensitive, with much more feeling at the lever and with less effort the results are better. My bike
at this speeds are like a switch ON/OFF. If you increase the
force, the bike stops. If not, no.
my OE callipers in perfect shape the difference is not too much.
The marginally increased brake force, and better, feeling at the
lever got with the Mingo settings do me to finally buy and fit a
set of these callipers.
282 mm original self-ventilated discs, original antidive
connected, metallic hoses, 16 "Nissin master, compatible organic
GG pads and FZR 400 RR SP callipers
3CV original 298 mm semi-floating discs, metallic hoses, 16
"Nissin master, GoldFren S33 pads and gold R1 Summimoto
Objective data obtained with
the Yamaha MyRide app on various routes riding on both
motorcycles from May to September 2,019
With the original 1TX callipers, values of maximum deceleration
was achieved between -5.48 and -6.56 m / sg2, depending on the
route and the day.
On my 3CV, higher values were always achieved, between -6.42 m /
sg2 to -11 m / sg2, maximum deceleration according to route and
the particular day
All on several routes, also
almost always riding from sea level to 2,300 m. of altitude in
scarce 30 km. And conversely, the app is best used to test
braking in vertiginous descents.
With FZR 400 RRSP callipers
the 1TX achieves values between -7.41 to -11.31 m / sg2
With these objective data, the 1TX has brakes at the level of my
3CV with R1 stuff. Modern brakes, in conclusion.
callipers from Triumph models
on fitment too, like the previous callipers. We must look the
callipers with 83 mm. distance mounting holes, fitted for the
third Triumph generation series, i.e. Daytona 600, presented in
the pics illustrating this mod. The Triumph logo has been
deleted with a radial hacksaw and painted after.
I think any Tokico
calliper from other models (i.e. Kawasaki), would fit with the
correct distance between mounting points
But, like you see at the
pics, there is a problem: the pads are too large, covering and
exceeding the wear track of the brake plate.
To solve it, Javier, from
Valencia, member of the Spanish owner group, opted for removing
the exceeding material from the brake pad with the radial
hacksaw, like you can see at the pics.
For me, the best solution
could be to choose brake pads for Yamaha monoblock callipers
instead of the appropriate Triumph designed for. I've been
checking measures and change from brand to brand in large, tick
and wide measures.
The problem could come
because the Yamaha designed pads are a little shorter. Would
these vibrate when fitted? Measures of these alternative pads go
from 69 mm. to 69,5 mm. when the Triumph pads are 69,8 mm. With
this pads the problem with the oversized long pad would be
problem is that you must change your brake lines with special
banjos, adding cost to the improvement.
we fit & test the alternative pads this mod will be update. If
anyone have done it, please mail me and inform.
In reference to the
results of this mod, Javier says that the difference is like day
at night with reference to the original callipers, that Javier
had fitted with Fazer master and metallic hoses.
Tested by myself
this summer 2019, the brakes are like any other modern brake
setup, or like the Summimoto conversion: tremendous power AND
feeling, not only brute power like the my OE 1TX callipers with
master and hoses.